Seeing the Monarch butterflies that migrate to the mountains of Michoacan has been on my bucket list ever since I moved to Mexico back in 2016.
When I finally got the chance to go in the winter of 2024, I jumped at it. The trip would start in Mexico City and while it meant a long road trip, I knew it would be worth it.
Each year, it takes four generations of butterflies to migrate from Canada to Michoacan. It is still unknown how these butterflies know to return to the same forests and fields every single year.
Be sure to grab a good eSIM like SIMOVO before heading into the mountains. You’ll want to have data during your trip to help you navigate with Google Maps or Waze. The destinations aren’t always well sign-posted off of the highway, so having data to navigate here is essential!
Which Butterfly Sanctuary to Choose in Michoacan
The Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve is a forest located in the state of Michoacan, about 60 miles from Mexico City.
It is an enormous 56,259 Hectares or 139,000 Acres of forest. Every autumn, millions (possibly billions!) of Monarch butterflies migrate from Canada and the US to winter in the warmth of this forest.
Within this gigantic forest, there are several sanctuaries where you can enter for a small fee (most of which goes directly to the upkeep and preservation of this land for the butterflies) to see these magical critters up close.
The largest of these sanctuaries, and the one I recommend visiting is El Rosario. Alternatively, Santuario Chincua is also a wonderful option, but it is harder to get to from Mexico City and will require a lot more driving.
Adventure-seekers may want to consider Senguio. The only way to reach this sanctuary is via a three-hour hike through the forest, but the trail is stunning, well kept, and you will be one of only a handful of others who are willing to battle the altitude for these butterflies. There are cabins and a few restaurants here so you don’t have to do the roundtrip hike in a single day.
What to Know About Visiting the Butterflies
The butterflies in Michoacan are dwindling in numbers for all kinds of reasons. The people of the ejidos or public lands here are doing everything they can to make sure the forest is as hospitable as it can be for these migrating butterflies.
Many of the guides you will meet at the sanctuaries are volunteers, so tipping is always welcome.
Be sure to stay on the path and always check where you are stepping. It’s not uncommon for clusters of monarchs to be along the ground on the paths.
Don’t yell or make too much noise while you’re on the trails. Not only is the idea to keep this a peaceful place for visitors, but you don’t want to disturb the butterflies or startle them.
Often they are clustered together to stay warm, especially early in the morning. If you want to see them flying around, you’ll want to visit during the warmest part of the day in the early afternoon when they are flying or moving around freely.
How to Get to the Butterfly Sanctuary
There are two main options when it comes to visiting the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere in Michoacan. You can either go on a tour from Mexico City or you can drive here. You cannot reach this region by public transportation.
If you don’t speak Spanish, I recommend visiting with a tour. This tour is one day that will pick you up and bring you back to Mexico City. It’s a long day, but well worth it if you simply want to add this onto a Mexico City itinerary.
Alternatively, you can rent a car from the Mexico City Airport and make the drive yourself. Driving in Mexico, particularly this toll-road route from Mexico City to Michoacan is very easy and relatively affordable.
Having a car also means that you can enjoy a full itinerary, visit some local towns along the way, and explore more of Michoacan during your trip. This is the best option for those who want to see more than just the butterflies.
Where to Stay When Visiting the Michoacan Butterfly Sanctuary
If you choose to self-drive you have a few nearby options. You’ll want to at least stop in the town of Angangueo. This is located right near the entrance to El Rosario Sanctuary, so you can come here for lunch or you can check into one of the hotels to spend more time here.
The town is covered in stunning murals that demonstrate the importance of the butterfly migration to the people of this town. You can also visit the Axolotl rescue center which works to grow the population of this mythical Mexican salamander.
A few good hotels in Angangueo or close to it are:
- Cabañas la Palma
- Rancho Cumbre Monarca
- Hotel Albergue Don Bruno (they don’t have a website, you either need to call, or go visit when you get there to see if they have availability).
If you are more interested in being in a larger town, the next best option that isn’t too far from the sanctuary is the town of Zitácuaro. The hotels here are significantly nicer than those in Angangueo.
Watch My Visit to El Rosario Butterfly Sanctuary